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LSD Transmission
  This is the imported LSD gearbox...  

These boxes are available directly from most Engine Importers. They are not a direct replacement for the standard gearbox, but requires some minor work to make it fit. As illustrated in the pics above, I bought the box with a CV head still in. These CV's are not the same as the standard ones. There is a difference in the spline patterns. 

Replacing the gearbox is quite tricky if you have not done so before. I am able to change the gearbox with the most basic equipment available in less than three hours with the help of a friend. I start by loosening the wheel nuts and the I put the car on trestles. Once the wheel is removed, take out the split-pin and loosen the big nut. You might need to use something to provide some sort of leverage. I used two large spanners. 

 

Once you have the nut removed, you need to pop out the ball joint. There is a large nut the I removed with a shifting spanner. You might find that the nut will press against the CV head. I jacked up the brake disc until it allows enough space for the nut to come off. While it is jacked up, I insert the handle of a large wrench underneath the ball joint. This allows enough leverage to pop out the ball joint and takes no more than 5 minutes. Like I said above, I only have some very basic tools available, so I improvise... 

Once it is popped out, turn the brake disc to the side so it will allow you access to the side shaft. Remove the side-shaft from the gearbox. You might want to loosen the CV boot and remove the CV head once the box is outside.  Below is a pic of the inner oil seal on the gearbox. If you are changing from stock to LSD than ensure you replace the seal with the one from the stock gearbox. 

Below I have illustrated the difference between the stock and LSD box. In the first pic you can see a #1 on the top of the gearbox, and the second pic does not have it. The box with the #1 is the stock box. In picture 3 and 4 you can clearly see the difference in thickness where the CV goes in. The thick box is the LSD obviously. This also shows that you need to have the side-shaft shortened by approximately 40mm. 

Here is a pic of the oil seal, you can see the numbers on it if you might need to get one from the agents. Pic 3 and 4 shows the shortened side-shaft. It is shortened at an angle and then welded up. Then a tube gets place over the shaft and that too gets welded into position. This is also much stronger than the standard side-shaft. 

I normally remove the box in this order: 

  1. Loosen the starter motor bolts. 

  2. Remove the bolts on the back gearbox mount. There are approx 4 bolts that go through the mounting into the box.

  3. Remove the two bolts on the bottom of the box next to the cross-member. They go through the block into the box. 

  4. Remove the front stabilizer mounting if you have it. (I don't...)

  5. Loosen the clutch cable and the selector fork.

  6. Remove the side gearbox mount. 

  7. Start removing the bolts that go through the box into the block, but leave the top two in place (one underneath the starter bolt and one just to the left of it)

  8. Place the jack underneath the gearbox. 

  9. Remove the last two bolts. 

This should free the box up completely and you should be able to slide it out. You can grab onto the bracket for the clutch cable and just lower it down onto the ground. 

Replacing the box, I would move it into position and lift it up while a friend slides the jack underneath. Slowly start jacking it up and make sure the drive shaft on the back goes through the oil seal. Once that is done, line the box up and shove it into position. It should be able to hold itself up while you remove the jack. It is more or less 2cm away from the block. I then climb in underneath it and push it in completely. This works much easier the to struggle from above. 

This basically completes the gearbox removal and installation... Drop me a mail if you have any questions or would like to add something.

 

 

 

  

 

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